In the Mexican generation my father was from, he didn’t want us to follow his path. Afuera, el nombre se anuncia tímidamente sobre un muro gris, a pesar de las letras doradas. When I arrive in the early morning, they panic. Friendly warning! A border-crossing Mexican immigrant, he moved around the United States through the better part a decade, harvesting the produce that most of us take for granted throughout what might be thought of as a stolen childhood. I knew this. I studied and I mimicked what they had done and realized that most cookbooks are not ever accurate. “It’s the only thing I really know how to do,” Maximo’s Head Chef Eduardo Garcia humbly explains. Even so, for me it was never about, ‘I’m going to become a chef.’ It was none of that. By: and Havre 77. “One day in 2007, immigration went to the restaurant and talked to the manager, who came to me crying and said, ‘They’re here for you.’ I said, ‘Don’t worry, I knew this day was going to come.’ I was arrested again and spent four months in federal prison in South Georgia. “We now have three restaurants in the city, Máximo Bistrot, Lalo! Then we’d go to Ohio to pick cucumbers for pickling and back to Georgia to harvest the onions we’d planted. Then, he met Chef Enrique Olvera in Vancouver and when Olvera found out that Garcia had worked at one of his favorite spots, he offered him a job at Pujol and the rest is, as they say, history. Immigration put a hold on me and transferred me to one of the hardest jails in the system, where I spent three years making auto tags. After that, it was Pennsylvania to pick mushrooms at night: Mushrooms only come out at night. Even the table bread is perfect; crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside and it’s made daily and served with a smattering of butters, from bean and sheep’s cheese, eggplant ash and goat cheese or truffle oil. Reading about the deportations — the poor guy in Tijuana who just jumped off a bridge — I want to encourage Mexicans who are in the same situation to know they’ll be welcome to come back and be in their own country. Máximo Bistrot Mexico City, D.F. ratings, photos, prices, expert advice, traveler reviews and tips, and more information from Condé Nast Traveler. Run by a veteran of New York City’s Le Bernardin, Máximo Bistrot attracts a crowd of dedicated foodies, most of whom are not clued in to the new upstairs bar. I began to sell drugs for the dishwashers. It was a moment in life. We got away, but I told myself I needed to face the consequences, so I turned myself in. “I was only back in Mexico for two weeks when my mother called and gave me the news that my father was dying of cancer. And, well, here we are.”, Eduardo García’s Path: Migrant Worker, Convict, Deportee, Star Chef. “The Puerto Rican guy went on to work as a butcher in Brasserie Le Coze, a restaurant Eric Ripert [the chef and an owner of Le Bernardin] was opening. “When you pick tomatoes, you pick from 7 to 11 in the morning and that’s it. In less than a decade at the celebrated Pujol and later at Máximo Bistrot, the restaurant he operates with his wife, Gabriela, in a corner of the Colonia Roma section of this thronging capital, Mr. García has garnered awards and plaudits for the bright clarity of the flavors his kitchen conjures and the subtly layered elegance of his efforts fusing classic French technique with traditional Mexican preparations and ingredients. Then, at the end of 2000, I came to Mexico, deported for the first time. After that, the sun is too hot and you don’t mess with the plants. “It’s the only thing I really know how to do,” Maximo’s Head Chef Eduardo Garcia humbly explains. Máximo Bistrot. For every bucket you turn in, you get a chip to redeem for cash. I can read and write a little, but my grammar is horrible. My training for this life is different from chefs who went to culinary schools. I still have scars from picking on all the fingers of both hands. Adriana Zehbrauskas for The New York Times. So then I started to experiment.